Thursday, August 11, 2011

c r o a t i a p t II { s p l i t }

After spending  3 nights in the old town of Dubrovnik, I headed off for the second half of my trip to Split. This town is due north of where I was staying so it required some travel but there were quite a few options. Whether you choose to travel by plane, ferry, car, or bus, it really is up to your own preference and budget. If you chose to drive up to Split, the benefit is that you would get to stop wherever you would like and take photos from a number of look out points. As you drive through the highways, you really take in the mountainous terrain and the blue ocean – the views were gorgeous.

I chose to travel by bus since it was the most economical way of traveling and it wasn’t too long – only 4.5 hours. It was air conditioned so it wasn’t too bad. Buses run every hour on the hour from 5am to 10pm so you don’t have to worry if you miss one. After traveling 4.5 hours though, you get pretty tired and restless. When I arrived in Split, I couldn’t wait to just stretch and walk along the beach.


My first thoughts of Split were that it is definitely much bigger than the old town of Dubrovnik. There was also a stretch along the pier that is much more modern than most of the areas I’ve seen in Croatia – palm trees and lots of restaurants allowing customers to dine al fresco. The area had a nice summer holiday feel to it. It was the perfect excuse to sit down and down a beer before heading over to find my hostel (which luckily for me, was only 5 minutes away from the beach).

I got really lucky with my hostel actually – staying in a double apartment on my own with air conditioning and a fancy shower, I couldn’t complain. The bigger benefit was that it was a heck of a lot cheaper than any hotel in the area! I stayed with CroParadise Green Hostel when I was there.

The first day I arrived, I really just roamed along the pier area and the palace in the middle of Split. A large portion of the city center is a Unesco site and therefore much of the architecture and surrounding areas are preserved. You could tell too – the buildings were very old but full of character. You could still see some Roman ruins within the city as well. Everywhere you look, you could see that the buildings were worn down but they were so colorful. I could stare at the buildings for a good while but the Mediterranean sun that was beating down on me told me to do otherwise. 

Vis – Komiza – Bisevo
On the second day, I took a ferry to the island of Vis. This is one of the islands that is further away from Split so it took a good 2 hours each way but you go to Vis if you want to see the Blue Grotto in Bisevo. A bit of a natural phenomenon, the sun hits the water in a way that makes the entire cave glow blue – this includes the water and the walls. So with something as enticing as that luring me, I couldn’t resist. The ferry will only take you to Vis but on the other side of the island is where you need to be. Hop on the bus that is right in front of the ferry exit and that will take you right into Komiza (this is the departure point for all boats taking you into the cave). It only takes another 20 minutes or so thankfully – after a 2 hour ferry ride, I was ready to take a bit of a break from sitting haha. 

Once in Komiza, I noticed right away how laid back this place was. All the restaurants had dining areas outside by the harbor and were covered – important as the mid day sun is pretty brutal. It was already 12 but before I could even have lunch, I was told that a boat to the Bisevo Island where the cave was located was leaving at 12:30. I had been told that there are some days where boats can’t even make it to the cave due to the weather / waves. If they were leaving today, I couldn’t take the chance on tomorrow – I would go now. We took a speed boat to the island and I gotta tell yah, cool sea breeze on a speed boat… not much more relaxing than that :) Anyway, when we arrived at the cave, I was amazed at how small it was. You had to duck down to prevent yourself from being hit by the ceiling. Once we were inside though, I quickly forgot about how small the place was or how hot it had been outside. The entire cave was glowing in this cool blue. The water was so transparent, it was as if you could see all the way to the bottom. The light reflected off the water giving the cave walls a blue tint as well – didn’t think I would see anything like it – it is moments like these that remind me of why I enjoy traveling so much. Anyhow, for those of you that plan on seeing this cave in the future, you do not need to stay overnight in Komiza or Vis. You can definitely base yourself out of Split and make it a day trip – so long as the weather works in your favor and the boats can get in and out of the cave. There are lots of agencies that will take you there so there are plenty of options. 


On the last full day that I had in Croatia, I met up with Angela and we went to Hvar. The ferry took us to Stari Grad which is on the Hvar Island but at the end of the day, I wanted to go to Hvar if we had the time. The most random thing happened on the ferry ride though: About ¾ of the way through our ferry ride, we decided it was too hot on the deck and went downstairs so that we could take in some of the air conditioning. That’s where we started talking Josip.

The conversation went from “hi” to “where are you headed?”, to which I replied, “Stari Grad”. He quickly said that Hvar is where you wanted to go, hands down. Hearing that from a local, it quickly set my mind on going to Hvar – the problem was, we would need to catch another bus ride from the ferry terminal to the other side. That is when Josip just asked if we wanted a ride! I was in a little disbelief and to be honest, I wasn’t too sure what to think of it at first but we obliged – we were short on time and it seemed like he was nice enough.

Next thing you knew, we were flying down the highway in his Jeep Grand Cherokee towards Hvar! Turns out Josip was raised in New Zealand but his family is from Croatia. He had recently come back to live in Zagreb which is in the northern part of the country. Then… more randomness, midway through the drive, he says, “do you have time for a drink or do you want to grab a bite to eat? I’ll show you a place that you wouldn’t know unless you were a local.” A sharp turn, an extremely secluded, narrow path and severe drops later, we arrived at this little beach bar which had the most incredible location. It was situated on a small, quiet beach where customers were swimming in the crystal clear waters or having a beer and a bite to eat. When we got out of the car, I was just stunned that we would find this spot of all places to sit down, relax, and have a few glasses of local white wine. We walked up to the bar and saw that there was a VIP Reserved sign for this table he wanted – he promptly proceeded to take off the sign and walk right up. The view from here was incredible. I just can’t even describe the feeling of sitting there, on the highest point of the bar, with a view of the Mediterranean, the cool sea breeze blowing against our faces, and all with a glass of wine at the ready. We would NEVER have found this place had it not been for Josip. You could tell he was a local as he spoke with everyone like they’d known each other for a long time.

After drinking our bottle of wine, he drove us into town – but not before he took us off-roading in the mountains with his car lol. Seriously, Josip had to be the most laid back 45 year old we had ever met! We had to get a picture before we left. 

The rest of the evening, we walked around Hvar and thoroughly enjoyed it. We didn’t see any sandy beaches but the waters, the sun, the beautiful people, how could you say no? The whole town had this vibe to it that drew you right in. In retrospect, I wish I spent at least a night here but I suppose that is something I could do next time I am here ;) 


The food in Split is no different than in Dubrovnik as one can imagine. Definitely recommended that you eat out doors as that is the only way you can enjoy the view and the sea breeze – in fact, you’d be hard pressed to find anyone dining inside. In Komiza I had a delicious spaghetti with truffles and prosciutto. It also came with a fish pâté which worked nicely with the bread provided. There a bunch of restaurants by the water that will serve the same thing - you couldn't go wrong.

Myself and Angela had dinner one night with people that we’d met during this trip in Split. The restaurant was called Fife (Trumbiceva obala 11, Split 21000, Croatia) – it was highly recommended by at least 3 locals so we thought it had to be good. It definitely did not disappoint. The portion sizes were great, the food smelled and tasted like a properly done, home cooked meal. All at the fraction of the prices you would find on the main tourist strips in Split or Dubrovnik. I ordered the Pork Ribs in Mushroom Sauce and the Seafood Risotto. I would highly recommend anyone who is in Split to give this place a try – you couldn’t beat it if you consider the prices you are paying.

Left to Right: Me, Angela, Annette, Katrina, Maggie

In Hvar, myself and Ange wandered into this alley way where we found a hostel restaurant called, Marinero Bistro (Banket bb, 21450). It is somewhat secluded but it is along the port area, and if you look closely, you will see a sign pointing you up towards the restaurant. It started off kind of quiet but it filled up quickly and before you knew it, there were long queues. The food was very modestly priced - you could get a full dinner for about 5 EUROs. I personally had the tuna spaghetti and Ange had the calamari.


So that does it for my trip in Croatia. Seven days, a nice brown skin tone, enough vitamin D to last the rest of the summer, and a bit of a beer belly later I am now back in London. It was a great trip and it was a great way to get away from the fast paced London atmosphere. I’ve said this before but being born in Vancouver, I have always loved being by the ocean and being amongst the mountains and the natural surroundings – I don’t think I could ever stay away from this kind of environment. Croatia had all of that in a summer holidays type of setting. So if you enjoy the great summer sun, sun tanning or walking along a beach, warm and clean (enough) turquoise / clear water, beautiful people (:p) and friendly people, Croatia is a great place to be. 


  1. what a gorgeous set of photos! and that cave -- how surreal is that cave? again, i really need a cpa. :P

  2. what an incredible set Kelven! you did it again! those caves look scary but at the same time inviting. an adventure surely awaits a tourist who comes there.

    oh and that Passarola restaurant looks so cute and cozy. the atmosphere is so inviting as well.

    and to top this off, what a nice sunset photo. i miss taking photos like that. i hope to take one this weekend when I go to Montreux.

    cheers and congratulations on your wonderful trip!

  3. Loving your city "reviews" man. Images are gorgeous, and I'm still jealous haha. And way to bite of Alice with the tape! j/k...maybe I'll try taping up my next post =)

  4. What beautiful beaches! and the water does look so crystal clear! I LOVE the bit about Josip - awesome!!! Very nice coverage on Croatia, Kelvin!